Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Lesson 4

CHILDREN'S WEAR




Description of the style

The long sleeve bodysuit with an envelope neck which will slip easily over baby's head without stretching out of shape. There is also a popper opening (snap fastener) on the gusset for quick and easy nappy changes.


Composition
100% cotton

Cotton 
Please find information about the cotton fiber properties in the previous posts. 

Cloth construction

The bodysuit is weft knitted. It is a 1x1 rib fabric. 




The thread used to sew the garment is made of polyester. Polyester are one of the best fibres to use for threads because it is very strong and almost always colour-fast.  It recovers quickly after extension and absorb very little moisture. Polyester is heat resistant and therefore it can be ironed with medium strength.  There are four types of polyester thread: Spun polyester, multi-filament polyester, trilobal polyester and texturized polyester. The thread used for the bodysuit is a multi-filament polyester. Multi-filament polyester thread is a continuous fibre thread. This is the largest category of polyester and is also the strongest type of polyester. Multi-filament strands are twisted together to form a smooth, lint-free thread. 

Source: http://www.superiorthreads.com/polyester-thread/




















Weight of the fabric 
194 g/m2 or 5.70 oz


TESTING

Shrinkage test DS/EN ISO 6330:2012

When washing in the machine we used the 5A procedure with a 2+/-0,1 with a load of 5 kg. We also tumble dried the garment. The difference between the measurements before and after washing were not that big. It is typical what you can expect when a garment is made of cotton. 




Colour fastness to washing DS/EN ISO 105-C06:2010 test no. A2S



























We have washed the pieces at 40° and used the ISO 105-A03  light grey scale to asses the sample. We only noticed a little colouring on the cotton material.


Snap fastener durability 


A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair of interlocking discs commonly used in place of buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under one disc fits into a groove on the top of the other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snap fasteners are often used in children's clothing, as they are relatively easy for children use.
Snaps can be attached to fabric by hammering (using a specific punch and die set), plying, or sewing. For plying snap fasteners, there are special snap pliers.












During testing we noticed that every time we put the sample in the machine and perform the test, the snap fasteners opened more easily. Based on this observation we concluded that probably after long usage and many openings and closing, the fastener will loose it's strength and might be opening by itself.



Appliqué test by using the piling box machine






We used the piling machine to test whether the print on the bodysuit would stay on without looking used or if the print would brake. The machine was on for 5 hours and spun around 18.000 times. After having taken the piece out, we found that nothing really happened to the print. To see how much it would take until the print would brake, we tried tearing it slowly apart by hand. Only little strength had to be put in until the print started braking and falling apart. 










Bursting strength test DS/EN ISO 13938-1:1999



We only did the bursting strength test once because it was a small garment and we therefore didn't have enough material to test it more times. 


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